The new documentary “Burgundy,” from Michael Dweck and Gregory Kershaw, offers a visually appealing but ultimately insubstantial look at the winemaking region of eastern-central France. The film follows several individuals connected to the industry, including winemaker Bertrand Devillard and his grandson, Melchior, who is hesitant to inherit the family business.
“Everything that follows is true. Exactly as we dreamed it,” opens the film, a statement the directors acknowledge may sound defensive. The documentary contrasts the traditional practices of winemaking with the changing ambitions of a new generation. Enzo, a young man aspiring to own a vineyard, works on Devillard’s estate, learning the craft from the ground up. He is described as having the “throwback good looks of a midcentury matinee idol” and consciously models himself after Jean Gabin.
Alongside Devillard and Enzo, the film introduces Céleste, a trainee sommelier, Patrick, the maitre’d of a 3-Michelin-Star restaurant, and Guillaume, a wine critic navigating post-separation life and physical therapy for RSI caused by handling 100 glasses a day. Guillaume provides droll comic relief. The directors, also responsible for the cinematography, employ a pictorialist visual style, staging interactions and utilizing sharp editing by Pauline Gaillard.
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