Directors Michael Dweck and Gregory Kershaw, known for “The Truffle Hunters,” delve into the world of Burgundy wine in their new documentary, “Burgundy,” which premieres at the Venice Film Festival. The film examines the dedication of winemakers, sommeliers, and critics to preserving traditions in a region experiencing a surge in wealth and demand.
Kershaw explains the filmmakers’ motivation: “What drives all the films that Michael and I make together is this desire to go to places that have held onto connections lost today.” They seek out communities where a deep connection to the land and tradition still exists, a pursuit made difficult by the encroachment of modernity. Dweck adds that they aim to “transmit how it feels when you’re fortunate to be part of such a community.”
The documentary features wine critic Guillaume, who, according to Kershaw, tastes over 100 wines daily. “For him, wine has a spiritual component. It’s the sensory experience of consuming something that has a magical quality.” Kershaw emphasizes that wine is more than just a drink, encompassing “the history of the land, the composition of the soil, the generations that have worked the land and the personality of the winemaker.” Dweck notes Guillaume’s unique perspective: “When Guillaume asks what year you were born, he doesn’t care about your age. He wants to know if it was a good year for wine. He goes: ‘Oh, ’96? It was a rainy year. ’97? Much better. Drier. More acidic.’”
The filmmakers observed a significant shift in Burgundy, where winemakers, while identifying as “farmers,” have become “global rock stars” due to high demand. This influx of wealth has created barriers to entry for newcomers, as highlighted by the story of Enzo, who is attempting to break into the elite winemaking world. “And it has become a world that is nearly impossible for outsiders to enter! You have to be either born into it or be a billionaire who can afford to buy a domain and lose money on it,” Dweck states. Enzo is shown learning “the code of the winemaker—the code of the wealthy,” but faces challenges as an outsider.
Before settling on Burgundy, Dweck and Kershaw visited various wine regions, ultimately finding in Burgundy what Dweck calls “a village of pleasure.” Their process involves building relationships with people before seeking out stories, described by Kershaw as “almost like a casting process” and “quite intuitive,” with no script.
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